What is the best way to secure my collectors to the roof?
avwFm87mDz2011-04-26T14:04:24+00:00There are many ways that you can mount you collectors to the roof. Whether you choose a flush mount or tilt mount design you should consider using a rail system. A rail system allows you to take advantage of the rafters while not interfering with the exact location of the collectors. First, you should decide where you would like the collectors positioned and then begin by installation you roof hooks or brackets, upon which the rail will mount. Once you have secured your roof hook in place you can then install the remaining hooks. Be sure that you do not place your roof hooks more than 48" apart for the same rail.
Each roof hook or hangar bolt, MUST be flashed using the flashing provided from the manufacturer. The Sunmaxx Xmount system is designed to be used without the need for roofing compound but can be used in conjunction with Henry's roofing sealant. For reducing the wind load you are better off going with a flush mount system. THis way you do not have to worry about the structural integrity of your roof as much, also, with a flush mount, there is more aesthetic appeal. For reducing snow load you are better off going with a flush mount. The losses that you will incur by going with a flush mount versus a slightly tilted panel rarely justify tilting your panel as long as your roof pitch is within 25 degrees of optimum.
How can I learn more about the financial assistance available for solar thermal
avwFm87mDz2011-04-18T13:25:28+00:00In order to educate your clients about the benefits of going solar, it is important to understand the financial opportunities. There are lots of incentives currently available for solar hot water systems. Most systems will qualify for a 30-50% incentive! Figuring out which incentives are available in your area and navigating the bureaucratic process to apply for them can be confusing. The most comprehensive resource on the internet for federal, state, and local incentive programs is the Database for State Incentives for Renewables and Efficiency (click here to go to link) (www.dsireusa.org).
How do I properly size my storage tank for the collector area?
avwFm87mDz2011-04-18T11:52:32+00:00The rule of thumb of 1-3 gallons of storage per ft2 of collector will only get you so far, so it is best to try being creative with your storage. As your load increases in the winter and production decreases, you should adjust your storage capacity accordingly. Even slight changes from day to day in your production vs. consumption, can dramatically affect total system performance. Tank prioritization allows you to maintain a target temperature in one tank while still charging another. Better yet, you may be able to run directly from your solar field to your heat load and bypass the tank altogether. With the use of aquastats and 3-way solenoid valves this can easily be accomplished for the greatest solar return
What is more important, postioning the collectors for maximum aesthetic appeal or maximum solar gain?
avwFm87mDz2011-04-18T11:50:16+00:00Do you want to make this system perform to its highest ability or should it look nice and fit the architecture of the house? We have all seen those albatrosses on the roof that are cantilevered at a compound angle to get a few extra BTU's at the cost of aesthetic appeal. Here are some guidelines to consider when deciding what is most important in determining collector orientation and inclination. For most collectors, tubes or flat plates, the angle of inclination has a 30 degree window of variation and the performance will still be within 95% of the expected maximum. That is, if your collectors should be mounted at 55 deg then you can mount them between 40-70 while losing only a small fraction of energy gain. As for the collector orientation, that window is 60 degrees for Evacuated tubes and 30 degrees for flat plates. These considerations allow you to fit the collector to most homes' pitch and orientation without losing too much energy gain. Obviously you want your client to get the most out of it, but you are more likely to get additional jobs if the collectors are mounted in a way that takes into account the aesthetic appeal. Ask your Sunmaxx Representative for a copy of the Inclination and Orientation performance Chart so you can make informed decisions.
Can I connect my pool to my solar hot water heating system?
avwFm87mDz2011-04-05T15:28:20+00:00Yes you sure can. Using the pool as a heat dump in the summer is very easy to do and very beneficial, not only to your wallet but a warm pool makes a happy wife. We have many clients that are doing this very thing with their "extra" energy from the solar loop, especially for solar combi-systems. Here is how you do it: You will need a stainless steel shell and tube heat exchanger, a motorized, three port valve and some extra piping. Ask you sales rep for a schematic to help you. Using the three-port valve on the hot side of the solar loop, pipe the SS HEX in parallel with the tank. Wire the three-port valve to relay two on your SmartMaxx controller and program the controller so that relay two activates the valve when your tank reaches max temp (170 deg F). Be sure and set your pool pump to run during the day. You will re-plumb your pool loop through the SS HEX and it will steal heat from the solar loop warming the pool and cooling the Solar array- saving you money.
What can I do with excess energy in the summer?
avwFm87mDz2011-04-05T14:24:51+00:00Three choices- Steam, Drain or Dump. For most places in the US, there will be more solar gain in the summer than in the winter. This occurs during a time when your load is lowest, so that means EXCESS HEAT. You must deal with this if you are to design and/build a solar thermal system that stands the test of time. Steamback system- this system design will allow for the steaming of your heat transfer fluid during times when the pump is off. Normally this is somethin you try and avoid, but if designed properly you can use the steam pressure to your advantage by forcing the Glycol out of the collectors and allowing the system to stagnate. Many of the millions of systems installed in Europe use this design strategy. Drainback system- this system design will allow for the HTF to drain out of the collectors during times when the pump is off. If the collector is empty of fluid, then there is no danger of overheating. Long considered an american invention, the drainback system is a fail safe and fail proof AS LONG AS IT IS INSTALLED BY A TRAINED PROFESSIONAL. Drainback are typically NOT for your average DIY'er where Steamback IS. Dump- a heat dump is a place off of your solar loop where you can dump vast amounts of excess energy without negatively impacting any other aspect. Can someone say SWIMMING POOL? these are the best heat dumps because they not only can store huge amounts of BTU"s but also because a warm pool is a happy wife. An effective heat dump can also be a radiator with fan that blows air across the coil, a buried line, a large watering tank, a hot tub, finned copper lengths etc- these would all be piped in PARALLEL with the storage tank for best results. A unique option for heat dumping is the Butler SPOC, by Sunmaxx, click here to view this product. This method of heat dumping is passive and 100% fail safe (if it installed properly) Mounting strayegy can also be used as effective over-temp protection. By tilting the collectors at a very steep angle, we can reduce our summertime production by nearly 40%